Did the kayaking on Chelan lake helped me over my low time, meeting somebody who I love will even do better. I call N and 2 days later he encloses me in his arms and I feel immediately fully alive.
Mount Forbidden
The trail into Boston Basin is steep and trashy. Even carrying most of our stuff, N is so much faster then me. I stuffer up the trail and don't complain when we make camp just below the towering peak of Forbidden (2687m). 
It seems to be the most perfect spot to spend the afternoon, reading, cooking and talking. I always love it to meet people again. There is no need for introduction, for explaining my trip or my name. This time its even better, while I remember many of our conversations in Cochise and we can just continue where we had left. 
N hangs our bags out of reach from the local marmot community. The stars are out and the night is warm. We are however crawled deep into our sleeping bags, not out of reach from the field mouse who torture us all night. 
We wake up with the sun and after an hour hiking reach the Forbidden glacier. More for my mental comfort then any safety reasons (we have no snow picks or ice screws) we rope up by doubling our twin rope. I have to search deep into my memory. Crampons, ice axe, self arrest. I just copy what N does, and it all slowly seems to come back to me. N keeps moving and I figure, where ever this guy goes, I will just follow. 
Due to a significant bergschund (crevasse between the stagnating ice and moving ice) we move over to the rock wall instead of the couloir. We change to climbing shoes and leave boots, crampons and ice axe behind. N leads the easy couple technical pitches up to the ridge above. From there we start simul climbing the ridge. N is also a way better climber then me, and I am happy when he stops to place gear. But then the rope gets tight again, and off I go. There is no time to think what would be the easiest move. Climb climb climb. 
The view at the top is stunning on this gorgeous day. A sea of peaks, glaciers, glacier polish loaded lakes, surrounds us and volcanoes are dotting the horizon. We are spending a long time at the top, imprinting this moment for ever in our memory.
The down goes via several raps and quickly we are back at our gear. 
When I put on my crampon, it jumps off my shoe and falls deep into the randkluft (crevasse between the rock and ice). When I climb down, I find it balancing above an abyss with the straps just within reach. The snow is soft now and we don't need them again. But it’s a good habit to bring back rented gear. 
I am tired when we make it back to camp. As in Cochise however, N likes to move on. If I want to be in the present of this guy, also here, I should just follow and don’t even start thinking of whining. And so we descend back to the car the same day. At night we catch up on our conversation till all the stars are for hours already blinking in the ceiling above.Cuttroat pass
The weather turns against us and for 2 days we wonder around.
Early Winter Spires (2380m)
We pack up again and with iffy weather pitch up the tent just below the Early winter spires. The clouds come and go. Hope this weather is turning to be for the good. The first route North West corner is 5.9 5-pitch on North Early Winter Spire. Clouds roll in and out and on the 4th pitch they decide to give us some treat. 3 minutes ago I was baking in the sun on the belay, now I am covered in hail. The route is less interesting then we had suspected from looking at the huge layback flake and N suggests another route for the late afternoon. He is serious, I am not. We are camped without water and have to deal with that first. No problem for N and he fills a backpack with empty bottles and water bag and is back in an hour. Please give me a guy like that.
By now its dark and another climb, well 2 other climbs are scheduled for tomorrow. We are both happy. N with “2 climbs” scheduled for tomorrow, me with 2 climbs scheduled for “tomorrow”.So we start with West Face 5.10- (with a small section of 5.10d/5.11) on the North Early Winter Spire again. Its very good. I climb much better and only take a fall on the 5.11 part. Thin finger locks with slippery feet. The rest is a fun and quality technical climbing. We rap down and I am tired. But I have promised, and got coffee in bed this morning. If I start my day like that, I am yours. Tell me and I will do.
A quick lunch and we head over to the South Early Winter Spire. South West Buttress with 7 pitches of 5.7/5.8 and some harder variations. I can handle that, although why do we have to do the harder variations. Again, I just follow up. 
When the sun is out its nice and warm, when clouds are blocking its cold. Happy to wear 5 layers. And even more happy about that when we start descending the shitty gully down. Luckily we can setup raps as its getting darker and now snow starts falling out of the sky. Its hard to keep the spirit high, together we manage.
Back at camp we make a quick breakfast. That’s the only food left for dinner. Luckily there is coffee for in the morning, because breakfast would be back at Oto. I am pretty beaten up, and sleep very well. N takes the rope, the gear and the tent, the next morning. I take the empty bear box. Where do I sign up for a guy like this? 
7/24 and still I want to talk more, to enjoy more, to feel his present more. This was one of the best weeks. Love you. Iris (Marblemount, 47771 miles)
