5452 - Not all is good

Traffic, people, strip malls, camping at the Wall-Mart, it just doesn't do it for me. Anchorage is like any other American city, it sucks. I have to be in town to run some errands, but besides that I try to get myself as fast as possible out of this city. But the bad feel lingers longer then I like. As I run out of town, I can't find a decent camping spot, and I end up on an overcrowded free campsite. I park my Oto randomly on the campground, while there are no free sites anymore. Crawling into the back of the Oto, I already feel something is wrong. I must have eaten something wrong and the whole night I role around to deal with the cramps in my body. Luckily the neighbors are giving me some distraction with Britney Spears blasting out of their radio until deep into the night.


The next day I feel grumpy and drive to the town of Hope. Not sure what to do there, but just the name should make me feel better. But at the exit to Hope, I notice that there will be no gas in Hope, and with an gas-tank empty light on for a while already I keep on driving to the junction Seward-Homer. But its one of these days, there is nothing at the junction. Just 2 roads splitting and a lake. The decision falls on Seward and I keep on driving and start counting down the milage. 37 miles, I might make that. 20 miles and the Oto starts jittering. There is no where to pull of, so I keep on going. 15 miles and I loose all power and pull over. Damm, its really one of these days. At the pull over a grandpa is teaching his grand children how to trap muskrats. Jeh, give me a redneck trapper, that will save my day. The grandpa is however very nice and gives me a ride to town. He even loans me a gas can and drives me back to my Oto. Thanks. I make it to town, fill up my tank and pull into a closed campground. Tomorrow can be only better, and at least now I know how big my tank is.

Dag,
   Iris (Anchorage, 5452 miles)

5124 - McCarthy

The drive from Haines to the Interior Alaska, is uneventful. Hrs of mountains, snow, lakes and trees are skipping by. The beauty and the hitchhiker are getting boring. Well the beauty not really and its time to explore a new National Park.


Wrangell Elliot national park is situated 60 miles away from the main road. Only a dirt road in very bad shape will bring you there. Bears are on the loose, there are no shops, no gas and probably nothing is open yet. Always nice to get good advice at a visitors center. That all the rangers are on a course might explain the no knowledge of the lady behind the counter. When I walk outside a woman grabs my arm. We sit down and she tells me all I wants to know and more. She and her husband moved a couple years ago to the region from Minnesota and became trappers. Pictures of wolfs, bears and other death animals are shown to me. Of course the impossible to be avoided pictures of the grand children follow.


One thing is clear to me. I need a shotgun to protect myself against the bears. So I go to the nearest shop to checkout some riffles and guns. As a foreigner its possible to buy one, but my background check might take a while. I am not concerned about that, because with a Green Card in my hand, this country knows more about me, then I even know myself. In the mean time I sign up for a course to learn how to shoot a gun.


The dirt road to McCarthy is not bad at all and the road leads along a river to the village of McCarthy. A foot bridge separates the parking lot from the city and I stroll into town. Also here everything is still closed and waiting for the tourist season to be opened, but you can feel the outdoor spirit running through the little tiny down town. In the evening A comes by and he explains a little bit more about the surrounding. The 2 glaciers pouring down from a close by mountain, the mines high on the mountain tops and the mining city Kennicot in the distance. I also get advice of the best hike to make the next day and the bear situation. The weather has been also pretty warm around here, and indeed the bears are waking up and are hungry.


Singing and talking out loud I walk the next day the 5 mile to Kennicot. In summer people live here and tourist walk around. Now there is nobody. I put on my snowshoes and continue the trail along the glacier. The snow gives away under my snowshoes and the going is hard and slow. But at least I make enough noise to scare of any bear around. After 4 hrs going I am still not at the viewing point, but decide to go back. This is gonna be a long enough hike already and the clouds are building up above me.


When I am just crashing down tired but happy in my Oto, A comes by again and invites me to his house. His small cabin, which over time became a very nice house is sitting in the middle of a cleared lot. Above the house 6 cabins for rent are situated overlooking the river and the mountains. We talk a lot, cook some food and I help cleaning the cabins and burning a huge bonfire the next day. A learns me how to shoot his riffle and his shotgun.

But serious, just take another look at the picture above, me shooting. There is something wrong with it. Is it the hair, or the clothes, the pacifist holding a gun? Its just not right. But don't worry, I just try to be open minded, I try to understand the people I am surrounded with. I can see that people wear shotguns to protect themselves against bears. I understand the subsistence hunting of the locals. I can not understand the enjoyment of the hunt or voting republican because the democrats might take away your gun. This might take some more time, if ever. In the meantime, I am singing to scare of the bears and carry my bear spray if things get out of hand. And I will not buy a gun or sign up for a shooting course, its just not me.

Dag,
   Iris (McCarty, 5124 miles)

4225 - Alaska Marine Highway 2

Ferry 3: Petersburg to Juneau


It only takes one flirt (and it wasn’t even me) and C, who works as Chief Mate on the ferry, offers to show me around. The tour starts on the blond girl, probably 26 years old and drop out of school level, but ends with a 101 course in navigation on the bridge. Its pretty cool stuff. For the rest of the trip I am enjoying the sunny weather and the stunning views.


Ferry 4: Juneau to Haines

Will I come back here? I leave so much behind, rocks to be climbed, glaciers to be explored, mountains to be scaled, sounds to be discovered by kayak or boat, slopes to be skied. Will I come back here? The sun is out to show the surrounding in its best behaviour, snow covered mountains are reflected their best sides in the mirror ocean, humpback whales wiggle their tails to me, dolphins come along to say goodbye, and seals are waving to me in the harbor of Haines.


Its like if everything wants to say something to me. Will I come back here?

Dag,
   Iris (Haines, 4225 miles)

4111 - Monthly April update

 



View IrisOpReis in a larger map

Dag,
   Iris (Juneau, 4111 miles)

4111 - The most beautiful state capitol

I am only 2 hrs on shore, and sitting already with L and her fiancé J (a helicopter pilot) in the Hanger, the place to be for a beer in Juneau. I like the town, its little and has a good vibe. But this might be totally gone in 3 days when a cruise ship with 2000 people on board will anchor down. And that’s only 1 cruise ship. This little town can handle 7 of these big cheap entertainment driving cities. I dealt with only 15 tourist and was already ready to run away.


All the campgrounds are still closed for the season, and I park my Oto at a trail head parking lot. I sleep good and in the morning make some small talk with a local walking his dog. If I had realized that Romeo the local wolf was sniffing my Oto this morning. Excuse me, a wolf was sniffing my Oto, hmmm….no, I had no idea. The local continues: “Romeo is not to be scared of, but there was a pack of wolves the other day in the mountains and they killed a mountain goat. And with this nice weather the bears are also waking up. Have a good hiking day, bye.” Jeh, that’s gonna be for sure a good relaxing hiking day…

I need some more coffee and time to think this over and when I am sitting down reading a book a group of tourist comes up to me. “That must be an interesting story, do you mind”, I hear the guide saying. When I look up 15 people are staring at me, and are eager to hear my story. In 5 minutes I tell my story and after the question and answer session I can enjoy my peace and quite again. I am just not so into tourists (although I am one myself).

Next to Juneau sit the Mendenhall glacier and the hike I am planning to do will go along the base of the glacier. But what about the bears and wolfs. Well I can stay here and not hike, or just go and enjoy a hike. I stow my snowshoes in a backpack and off I am. There is hardly any snow on the trail, and I fully enjoy the good weather and the views of the glacier.


After a snack I decide to take a shortcut along the shore of the lake back to the oto, instead of the trail. The shortcut of course becomes a bushwack and I have to climb some easy rocks here and there. Suddenly I see 2 mountain goats looking down on me from a ridge. I kind of have no clue if mountain goats are dangerous at all. In Yosemite more people get hurt by deer then by bears. Will more people get hurt here from mountain goats instead of wolves or bears? I keep my distance but make some pictures. When I put back my camera, and turn around for a view over the lake, a mountain goat is keeping an eye on me from only 10 meters away. Well if its dangerous, I have at least a good picture.


For the rest of the time in Juneau, I enjoy the company of L and J. We go climbing, have dinner together and hang out.

The last afternoon I watch the sun setting over the Lynn Canal. I can see why Juneau is considered the most beautiful state capitol in the country.

Dag,
   Iris (Juneau, 4111 miles)

3985 - The non real Alaska

Please don’t make the mistake by saying that Petersburg is in the non-real Alaska, because it will upset people. This is South East Alaska, and the real Alaska is called the Interior, just that you know. And if you still don’t believe it, you just have to look down. Here we don’t wear California flip-flops, here we wear brown rubber boots. This is Alaska.


Another difference is that instead of living with the sun as I did in southern California, the locals live with the tide. And several tide tables are laying around in everybody’s house. Big tide differences are bad for Halibut fishing, kayaking against the tide is not recommended, you wane camp above the night high tide line, putting your boat on the grid to be able to work on it needs a high tide and parking your skiff high up the shore when you wane leave with low tide gives a steep learning curve (sorry, but is was funny).

I can stay in the house of my friend, but when it becomes too crowded I move for a couple nights to a boat in the harbor. While a lot of the villages here are living from tourism (Juneau (population 30.000) can accommodate 7 cruise ships with each 600 to 2000 people on board), Petersburg is a real fishing town and the harbor is mainly filled with fishing boats. The herring season is on its way, and I get excited. I love raw pickled herring with onions, but my excitement get cracked down fast. Herring is mainly used as bait for bigger fish or to fulfill the Japanese market with herring eggs.


Compared to the East side of the Sierra Nevada, this land is rough and robust. The fragile East side has many building regulations and for everything permits are needed. Here the wet climate and the low population density makes the impact of humans a lot less and no building regulation exist at all. And so people build the most amazing little cabins for themselves far away from everything. After an afternoon of cragging, there is nothing better then to sit in front of a self built cabin with a glass of wine and some good company.


Its weekend and with the sun above our head, the 8 of us set out for an overnight kayak trip. The water is calm, and I keep forgetting that I am actually on the ocean instead of a lake. But the seals who pop up now and then to check on us, do remind me that this is salty water. The area we are going to will be totally dry during low tide, and it’s a good skill to keep track on the time.


The plan is to stay at a cabin on a little island, but as we arrive its clear that the cabin is already occupied. The island itself is covered with a dense rain forest and the only option we have is to camp out on the dry flats in front of the island, just above the tide line. With the good weather we have, this is for sure the better option anyway. We kayak, walk around, have some good food, a camp fire and enough stories to keep us awake to see all the stars in the sky.


The wild life is abundant, with bald eagles soaring around us, we see bear foot prints in the mud, a moose walks by and many birds are flying around us. This country does not belong to us humans, it’s the land of her, mother nature.


The weather keeps being amazing, which is totally not common here, and the last day we spend working in the garden. To extend the growing season with 2 months, the vegetable gardens are raised 30 cm above the ground, to heat up the soil a little bit more. So we make a new bed, mix seaweed through the soil, plant some peas and make a kitchen table while we are in the get things done mode.


In the evening we are sitting satisfied on our new table eating pizza when the phone rings; If we like to taste some fresh king salmon. It takes a couple seconds and off we are. I am not sure if this is actaully my first fresh salmon ever, but its for sure one to remember for ever. With the sun setting over the Wrangell narrows, a fresh salmon, a beer and a group of people who I all started to love, life simply doesn’t get better then this. Thank you all so much guys.

Dag,
   Iris (Petersburg, 3985 miles)

3985 - Alaska Marine Highway 1

I was scared to go alone on this trip and could see myself staying forever around the familiar places in California. Booking a ferry ride on the Alaska Marine Highway was the solution for my fear, a specific date to commit to. A boat ride from Bellingham to Haines, through temporary rainforest area of the South East. With stopovers in Ketchikan, Petersburg and Juneau to give me a sense of the local culture and cuisine. And so in the middle of April I board the ferry in Bellingham.


Ferry 1: Bellingham to Ketchikan

L shoves a chair besides mine. Its nice to have her besides me, and within 1 minute we are friends. She is on her way to Juneau to stay with her fiancé for the summer. We are calling the solarium deck home for the next couple nights and share our home with about 20 other persons, all hugging a long chair with our sleeping bags. Most people are coming either back home from a winter away or coming up for a summer job in one of the small villages on shore. It’s a nice group of people and we share stories and keep each other company. J promises me to find me a whale, and on the second day he spots me my first humpback whale ever. The weather stays rainy and cold for the whole trip, but with 5 layers of clothing it doesn’t bother me. I actually enjoy it. After so many years living in California, I have been begging for rain. I don’t like the California gold, I love the Dutch green.


I pick up J from the dock and he shows me around the village of Ketchikan. J has left the family company behind for the summer to live on a boat, climb trees, make pictures and enjoy his life. There is not much going on in Ketchikan, while most shops are not opened yet for the Tourist season. J brings me to the local bookstore and for almost an hour we talk with the owner of the store. Its wonderful to meet people with time and I am buying some books about the South East.


Ferry 2: Ketchikan to Petersburg

Why are there people knocking on my Oto in the middle of the night. I am standing in the waiting line for the ferry and just fell in a deep sleep in the back of my Oto. What…I can board the ferry now…its in the middle of the night. But now I am awake it doesn’t make much difference. With a sleepy head I drive the Oto inside and take a bag with food and my sleeping bag upstairs. I crash down somewhere on a floor for some more hours of sleep. I wake up with a headache and move quickly to the solarium deck for some more sleep and fresh air. The weather is still shitty, but it doesn’t matter. We navigate a big sound with no views on either side, but my new book keeps me occupied.


The last part of the trip before we enter the harbor of Petersburg goes through the Wrangell Narrows, which doesn’t give much room for any navigation mistakes. I am standing in the front of the ferry and look upwards to the bridge. Must be nice to see whats going on there…

Dag,
   Iris (Petersburg, 3985 miles)

3839 - Heading North

 

The first stop on the way North in Lava bed NP. Exploring Lava tubes is the way to go and thats the plan. Lava tubes are created when the outer part of a lava flow solidifies and creates a tube where the lava flows true. With the hot lava gone and sediment settles over the top, a barren landscape with caves underneath is left behind. Where the ceiling of the tubes collapsed, its possible to enter the tubes and walk through them.


In the morning I am heading down into the first tube I stumble upon but can't see much. The black lava walls of the tube are absorbing all the light my little headlamp is producing. I have done the Chasm of Doom twice in the pitch dark, and that should give me some confidence. But maybe because I am now not under the influence of...and the name of this tube is called Labyrinth, I decide to go back to the visitors center and borrow a good good lamp.

Its a wise decision and the going is a lot faster. I walk and growl trough several lava tubes and its fun to be all alone in the pitch dark.


The next stop is Crater lake NP. But the weather sucks and I think I might have seen the deepest lake in the USA.


Quickly I am continuing to Smith Rock. Sport climbing mecca. I climb with C who grew up in the area. The weather is a miss and hit and only one day is a climbing hit. Its a nice spot to climb and we climb sport as well as trad. Totally a place to come back to. The other day is a miss climbing wise, but a hit clean and warm wise. C takes me to his parents home, and I get to enjoy the stove, a hot shower and even a dinner and movie in town. In the meantime I learn about hunting (several stuffed animals are decorating the house), ecology (C did some cool projects in the Kayman islands) and the local economy (Cs mom works for the local hospital). When I drive back to the campsite in the evening, my Oto is covered in 10cm of snow. Jeh, this was definitely a hit.

And then suddenly I am not alone anymore. A (a hitchhiker from Canada) is joining me for the next 2 days. After a five minute "driving a manual car" course, I can finally relax in my own Oto. We are heading back into the Cascade range, and with good company, good talking, good music and snow topped mountains all around us, it can't get better. It however does. We make a 4 hr hike up the flank of mnt Rainier. 20 glaciers are covering its top, the Cascade range is all around us, and the weather is sun sun sun. I have no idea about the shape of A, but with a little pushing (next hill we stop, ah lets do that one too, wow look at that, lets go there) we make it up to the panoramic view point. The way back we run through the knee deep snow (I left my snow shoes in the car to show some solidarity to A). This is definitely a mountain to scale one day.


I drop of A at the Canadian border with pain in my heart. And maybe that makes me not be able to find a good place to sleep. I end up parking my Oto at the side of an oil refinery and of course within 5 minutes security pulls over. I am allowed to stay, but the security guy is concerned about the girl alone in the car situation and offers me to park my Oto in the parking lot of the factory. I can use the facilities of the building I am parked besides. The next day I take the liberty to use the facilities...the shower. It had been a while again, and its good. However overnight the next security shift started working, and these men are not so friendly. I have to show my ID, tell my story, and after being told I am watched by camera, I have to leave in 5 minutes. But who cares, I am going to board the ferry to South East Alaska, clean and happy.

Dag,
   Iris (Bellingham, 3839 miles)