24 June 2010

41562 - National Parks in Colorado


I have some time in between adventures and head for 2 more national parks.

Back Canyon of the Gunnison NP
The first one is the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Is the U-shaped valley of Yosemite carved by a glacier, the Black Canyon is a real V-shaped river carved valley. Is the Grand Canyon carved by a slow moving Colorado river through soft rock and 6 million years of erosion, the Black Canyon is cut by a fast moving Gunnison river through a hard rock uplift with hardly any erosion.

Combined a deep, narrow, with sheer cliffs, black canyon cuts through the landscape.


Great Sand Dunes NP
The second National Park is the Great Sand Dunes. Streams, creeks, melting snow and flash floods brought bits of rocks out of the San Juan Mountains to the San Luis valley floor. Southwestern winds blew the grains towards the low curves of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains at the other side of the valley and there they started to pile up.

High dune with 198 meter of height is one of the tallest dunes and a good burley 1 step forward ½ a step slide down hike up. The sun is hot, the sand even hotter.

When I run back down the slopes, sand is piling up in my shoes and burning my feet. Stopping is no option, while now I am sinking to my ankles in the hot sand. Did it take me an hr to hike up, 20 minutes is all it takes to bring me back to the Oto.

Dag,
   Iris (Salida, 41562 miles)

23 June 2010

41249 - Paradise


This is how it goes. I meet A in a coffee shop in Moab and she sends and text message to E. E has a beer with W and gives my contact info. W thereupon drops me an email and invites me to Ophir, Colorado. And thats where I wanne be, when escaping the heat of Utah, high up in the Rocky Mountains.

Ophir sits in the middle of the San Juan mountains and is in one word; paradise. Its all I want for now. A beautiful setting, a nice house, very healthy food, a relax atmosphere, he is amazing.

We dance at the Telluride bluegrass festival, drink beer, cook, read, talk, bike and hike.

W is a professional outdoor photographer, so why words when pictures can describe all you want to say.












Dag,
   Iris (Ophir, 41249 miles)

15 June 2010

40948 - Tour de Colorado Plateau


One of the most geologically intriguing features of the Colorado Plateau is its remarkable stability. Relatively little rock deformation such as faulting and folding has affected this 337.000 km^2 plateau when it was uplifted 3 km into the air, 75 to 15 millions years ago.

At the staircase edges of the plateau and where rivers have cut in deep, the 2000 million years of deposit layers are exposed and the greatest concentration of national parks in the USA are established to see them all.

When floating down the Green river a couple weeks ago, I cut down through about 25 of the upper layers, deposited between 100 and 300 million years ago. 40 of the lower layers, deposited between 200 and 2000 million years ago, I saw when descending into the Grand Canyon last year. Now, by touring around the Colorado Plateau in my own Tour de Colorado Plateau, I focus on almost each layer individual. The question is just how to avoid all the other tourists. A couple emails help out.

Bryce NP (18 layers, 60-175 Mya)
Known for its giant natural amphitheater filled with hoodoos, formed by wind, water and ice erosion of the river and lake bed sedimentary rocks.

When rain combines with carbon dioxide forms a solution of carbonic acid the relatively soft limestone erodes easily away. It is this process of chemical weathering that rounds the edges of hoodoos and gives them their lumpy and bulging profiles. In the winter, melting snow seeps into cracks and joints and freezes at night. Over 200 of these freeze/thaw cycles occur each year in Bryce Canyon. Forming windows and hoodoos.

And thats beautiful from above and from below when I take a hike on the with only 1% of the actual amount but still a lot of tourist filled trails.


The email says: Go to Thundermountain, just outside of the park and ride the trail on your mountainbike.

With no suspension, helmet, gloves, stubby tires or much experience, its hard, scary but very rewarding and deserted.


Cedar Break NM (18 layers, 60-175 Mya)
The nearby Cedar Break is more of the same.


Zion NP (28 layers, 175-250 Mya)
One step down or back in time, depending how you look at it, is the Zion Canyon. Cut away by the North Fork of the Virgin River and very touristy. I take my bike and ride the road to the end. As before, somehow this park doesn’t cut it for me.


The email says: The northern part of the park, the Kolob canyons is more attractive and way less touristy.

I take a nice stroll to a double arch, with only a few other tourists around.


Capitol Reef NP(26 layers, 60-270 Mya)
In Capitol Reef NP the layers folded over each other in an S-shape, instead of the perfect horizontal arrangement I have seen so far. The warp in the earth's crust that is 65 million years old and created the Waterpocker Fold, also created the Rocky Mountains. It has weathered and eroded over millennia to expose layers of rock and fossils.

I take the partly dirt Burr trail, which cuts straight through Long Canyon in the Grand Staircase-Escalante NM, before entering Capitol Reef NP.

When it pops out the views are until far and beyond and makes a very good camping spot.

The email says: Lower Muley Twist, I have heard its good.

I climb over the Waterpocker Fold and descend into the Lower Muley Twist Canyon.
Its hot and I take breaks in the shade.

I don't see another person though and enjoy the canyon walls rising high above me.

To get back to the other side of the Waterpocket Fold I don't have to climb it, but Muley Twist my way trough it.

Its a long hole back to Oto to complete the 15 mile loop. Bugs and heat are my part.

No complains though with a landscape like this around.


Natural Bridges NM (15 layers, 200-286 Mya)
After the Burr trail I cross Lake Powell by ferry and head south. And deeper it goes.

When the long winding curves of the Kachina and Sipapu rivers almost circle back on itself, they can create thin rock walls between the loops. As the river keeps undercutting the thing walls, a natural bridge is born over time. The park features 3 large bridges and I check Sipapu out from the bottom.

The email says: Where all the tourist go left, go right, up stream, there are some ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings.


Valley of the Gods (228-286 Mya)
Valley of the Gods is the next area on the tour. This is the cheap mens Monument Valley, but nothing wrong with.


Hovenweep NM
The next 2 parks I visit are focusing more on the inhabitants then geology.

Between AD 1150 and AD 1200, the Hovenweep inhabitants began building large pueblos around fortress-like towers at the heads of box canyons. The people built check dams and reservoirs and moved their fields into areas where water could be controlled. They also built large stone towers, living quarters and other shelters to safeguard springs and seeps. 6 village are conserved and I visit the most accessible one, Square Tower.


Mesa Verde NP
The Anasazi, ancient Pueblo people, made stone villages and spectacular cliff dwellings their home in the 1200s AD. I visit Balcony House.

Cliff Palace I see from the road.


With the help of the emails, which let me escape the tourists in the more remote part of the parks (thanks), I learned a lot, saw a lot, experienced a lot. But enough with National Parks. Time to be tired, to get a pinched nerve, blisters on my heels, blood on my knuckles. Time to get my bud kicked in the outdoors of the Rocky Mountains.

Dag,
   Iris (Blanding, 40948 miles)

05 June 2010

39375 - I am (not) good enough


M doesn’t want to climb with me, because I am not good enough. At least my friends are honest with me. And so for a couple days I hang out in a small living community south of Moab from friends of a friend to figure out what to do.

Then J drops me an email. Meet me at 10 o’clock downtown and we figure something out. The figuring out turns to be very easy, Castleton Tower, there to be climbed.

Its my first sandstone climbing ever and its hard. Slippery feet, hand jams, finger locks, fist jams, how does that all work again. The setting, the scenery and the top out make it all worth the pain and pumped arms. Towers in the desert, so my thing.

After such an amazing day the next day is easily planned. The local sport area, Mill Creek.

Sharp tiny edges is normally my style, but I can not find the right balance. Its again a suffer fest. Also climbing down into a gorge has some depressing mode to it. Time for a rest day, because IC is still coming up.

And IC, that’s Indian Creek. Cracks every where. Cracks to love, cracks to hate, the difference is just your hand size. Cracks going on for ever at the same width and that means 3 racks and you still want more gear.

Its hot hot hot in the desert and we are the only crazy ones at the Supercrack Buttress. Choose the climb you want. We start with Twin Crack (5.9) with 2 nice hand size parallel cracks. It’s a nice warm up.

To avoid the sun we move over to Supercrack (5.10b), a splitter in which you have to love your cupped hands but it will lead you to heaven. My feet are cramping, my hands are cramping, that’s when you take some hangs and start wondering.

The next in line and still in the shade is The Wave (5.10d). It goes from fingers, to hands, to fist, to off-width, to overhang, to everything. That’s when you take many hangs. Jeh, I might not be good enough for Indian Creek. The sun is every where now and I would have been more then happy to admit my defeat.

But J is young and strong. Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c) is the next one over. Its perfect hand size, but has a little roof. Am I really be able to do this?

I take a good rest for the crux and place a foot in the crack. That holds surprisingly good. Gravity is pulling on me, but the crack is the perfect size for my hand jams. I hang upside down enjoying every move, it’s simply incredible. I might not be that bad of a climber after all, I am good enough.

Now I am for sure done, but that’s only what I am thinking. 3AM (5.10b) is the real last one according to J. And that’s one to much for me, but I make it to the top, but it aint pretty.

I might not have lead a single pitch, but M has again trust in me. Some alpine routes in the Rocky Mountain NP later in the summer sounds good to me. And J, thanks for a desert tower, a local sport area and Indian Creek cracking, nothing more to ask for.

Dag,
   Iris (Moab, 39375 miles)