Iris (Redwood City, 52756 miles)
30 November 2010
52756 - Interview with myself
So lets go over some statistics first:
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So that was it, how was it?
When I left I was scared. I wasn't sure that I could do this on my own. I just remembered how I had loved traveling through South America. So I figured to start in the familiar to ease in, Jtree, and book a ferry to Alaska to give myself a focus point. I told myself that any given point in time I could just turn around and head back. But I loved it and I just kept going. I hadn't predicted that it would turn out the way it did. Its funny to read back the 3rd entry of this blog. I wrote: And in front of me is laying America, with all its nature to be seen, cities to be explored, people to be met, experiences to be made. And that is exactly what I found; nature, cities, people and lifetime experiences.
Why do you think it turned out so good?
Being a blond chick helps for sure. But somehow I am also very approachable. People would start talking to me in the supermarket, at the gas station, in a parking lot and the next time I knew I was set up with dinner, a shower and a bed for the night.
Another fact that helped is my accent. It took time for people to understand whats up with me. In the mean time they started to just show me their lives. They would drag me along on ATVs, to parties, bars, festivals, to the top of mountains, over the ocean, to their family and friends. And I just said yes to everything and soaked it all up.
What was the purpose of this trip actually?
I simply wanted to see the country I had lived in the Bay Area and knew that California is only a small part of this immense country. And I had this European prejudgment, America just sucks, and wanted to see for myself whats was true about that.
And?
To be honest, in general America still sucks.
The way the political system is set up with only 2 parties. We go left, we go right, or we fight.
The way religion is playing such a large roll still. The sanctity of marriage is only defined as between one man and one woman! Just that you know.
The way the people are made scared by the insane overreacting media. Where is my gun.
The way the infra structure is laid out. Where is the city center?
The way a discussion is not allowed to avoid conflict. Anybody can top this last story, while we don't want to talk about religion, different races, or politics!
On an individual level this country is amazing.
And then I am not just talking about the pockets of green in red Alaska and Texas, the environmental aware states of Utah, Colorado, Oregon, Washington and California. Its also all these other states were people just live their lives. Are happy with who they are and what they have. An eye opener was to spend time with K, in his hunting trailer. I would normally walk in a big circle around these gun loving, drinking camps. But the fact was that I simply liked K. We talked a lot about our differences and where they came from. And I realized that "what you know, is who you are", (my aunt told me the same) and that made me lose my prejudgment of Americans. Instead I started to try to understand why people where thinking the way they did, or acting the way they did. If you understands somebodies background and environment, most people make sense. It confirmed one of my life rules: About 99.99% of the people on this planet are nice.
The most amazing part of America though is its nature, its overwhelming. The national parks are beautiful. The fact that you can roam around alone for days without encountering another human being is unheard of in Europe. The diversity in landscapes is enormous. I understand why Americans are not traveling all over the world, its all here. (Except I think some exposure to other cultures will open eyes). This is a wonderful country to be in the outdoors in.
Where there more people who had an influence on you?
In the beginning of this trip a friend asked me: "But what do you want, who are you?" At the time I had no answer and it troubled me. It troubled me for a long time and I kept thinking about it over and over. Why wouldn't buying a house, working a job make me happy? Why am I so on the move? Why do people have so much influence on me? Why am I not just me?
The next time when we sit around the campfire, I can answer him a little bit better: I am Iris, I am me.
I am however a modern explorer, inside and outside. I will never be satisfied and probably keep searching the rest of my life for who I am, what I want. But you know what, I love it and I am very happy doing it.
So it changed you?
I am not sure that it made me change. I think being so often alone and keeping true to myself in every situation, just gave me more trust in my own existence. A confirmation that I am still on the right path in my life. It is good to keep following my heart and be who I am.
Did you never missed home?
No. I can really feel home within hours in any given place. I keep my few routines and I am home. For sure with L and her daughters in Austin I had a special home, and with V and A in Alaska I felt I had never not lived there. But in general home is where my bed is that night.
Any special thanks to somebody?
Well to all the people I met on this trip. Who visited me, showed me their lives, took me in their house, enjoyed the outdoors with me, became my friends. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
AdamA AdamB Aimee Andrew Andy Angelique Anna AnnaW Ben Bill Bjorn Bonny BradP BradS BradT Brooke Carola Christian Christine Christine Cody Condrad Crescent Dave Davin Debbie Dede Derek Don Doug Eddie Edgar Eph Eric Fig Francesco Frank Gayla Gemma Greta Heather Heidi Inger Janet Janou Jason Jay JeffB JeffW Jan Jen Joel John Jonathan Julie Karin Katie KenH Ken Kert Kyle LauraB LauraS Le Lee Leona Lyn Mardie Markus Mat Matt Mia Michael Micheal Mikaila Neale Nicole Odessa Patrick Patty Pavel Pete Randy Rob Romain Ronald Sandy Sarah Sarah Scotty Shannon SteveV SteveM Sylvie Ted Tim Tina ToddB ToddG Trampas Vern Vi Whit Will ZacH ZacM Zeke and many more...
I do wanne mention somebody special; mM. Doing a trip like this can not be done without a solid home base. Most of the time it went like this. mM !!! I have an address for the coming 4 days. Please send my creditcard / drivers license / car insurance etc now. That is now, today, now. And off went mM again to the post office to send my needs express to me. Every time I went in the outdoors alone, I would send mM and trip itinerary and mM would keep an eye out for me. When I was down, I was encouraged to keep going and believe in myself, and when I was happy, we would laugh and do some research for the blog about my experiences. Thank you so much.
Tell me about the blog.
The blog has helped me a lot to shape the trip. When you are by yourself you tend to rush through everything a lot more. The blog made me stop and really read the displays in museums and it forced me to do some back ground research on topics. I also really enjoyed writing on it. It gave me some escape from the outside world now and then and made me process the experiences I had in a more structured way.
Are you going to continue your blog?
No, this was it. The travel is over so the IrisOpReis blog is over...at least for now. All of you, thanks for reading though.
You did so many things, what was the best?
Definitely the Quetico kayak trip in Canada was a highlight as well as the Great Divide bike trip in Colorado. I really love to do trips alone and be with nature. Oh and floating down the Yukon and kayaking Prince William sound were just impressive. The best however was the Tofino kayak trip. It had it all. The scary moments, the peaceful days, a beautiful surrounding, the fish on the campfire, the solitude, the company.
What bothered you the most?
I grew up with gymnastics, ice skating, wind surfing, rowing, road biking. I understand the working of LED, LCD, semi-conducting. I know who Pim Fortuyn and W.A. van Buren are. All not very relevant though, if you live in a hunters camp, if you work on an organic farm, if you are climbing a rock. And so on many occasions I felt very naive or even dumb, and I became more a follower compared to my natural tendency to lead. It made me very humble but also hard to stay being who I am. It was good that I had many hours alone, where I would be dependent on just me and in that way gained trust in myself again. But from time to time it angered me. I am not stupid!!!
How does Oto do?
My little brother found the most awesome car for me ever, and it never let me down. Oto is still running smooth and strong. And he will stays with me for a little bit longer.
Back in the Bay Area?
No, for sure not. I loved the life there, and the fact to be able to work in the center of the high tech world. Going back however wouldn't be a step forwards. I thought about China, because that would have been an adventure. But at the moment I can not do the high tech life again. Traffic jams, 60 hr work weeks, 2 week vacations, smog. Yes, it makes shit loads of money, but thats not what life is about.
In Silicon Valley you are hired as a specialist and there are very high expectations of you. And with all the best brains in the world around you, keeping up the appearance that you can handle it, is what you do. Arriving in Alaska the opposite was asked from me. No bull shit, just tell what you can and what you can not do. That will keep us alive out there. If you have never done it, we will teach you. It felt like coming home.
So for the winter I have rented a room in the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon. I have some friends here and its just a beautiful place. Then when spring comes; yes Alaska. I hope to work for the pizza place of a friend and live a more sustainable lifestyle (maybe with other friends). Every spare minute will be spend in this incredible states outdoor with a close community nearby. Money? I lived out of a car and was happy. And the winter? Well thats going to be worries for later. But northern lights for sure. First a summer full of new adventures, new skills to be learned, new customs to be adapted...My explorations are starting all over again. Loving it!!!
Iris (Redwood City, 52756 miles)
10 November 2010
50259 - Again a birthday
Time flies, my 38th birthday and the second on the road. How can I make this day special after all these adventures from the last year(s)? Somehow we succeed, Selkirks Mountains!
It took a while to get here. When the description said, make a right turn after 0.8 km, all I see is bushes. N who is driving, sees however an overgrown old logging road.
Also finding the trail head turned out to be a challenge.
And where the Fairy Meadow hut is...
New energy made us continue the next day.
And on my birthday, I wake up besides the one I love.
I get coffee while watching the sunrise from my sleeping bag.
We go for a hike.
And indicate all the peaks for the next time (ski or climb)?
Back at the hut...
Soup and Sauna !
I am again simply happy. This was a special amazing birthday!
Dag,
31 October 2010
29 October 2010
49763 - Me cooking?
Because most of my friendships in the Bay Area were based on having lunch together in the many restaurants around, I had lost most of my cooking skills.
And as a result on day 4 of this trip, I burned the food. I can’t totally blame that on the Bay Area, while it’s not a very uncommon feature of my cooking life. Even before the Bay Area, I could totally loose interest during cooking and only remembered that I was cooking after … smelling it. Back then friends were surprised when it did work out.
From day 5 to 26, I was served delicious breakfasts, healthy lunched and amazing dinners. No complains. It also was a good push to set me back on track of cooking every day myself. And slowly during this trip I gained more interest in food. From helping friends out in their garden, to working on organics farms. From collecting cook books, to baking bread on my grill. One more last push is needed; a full month dedicated to food and cooking. 
It starts off with a field kitchen 
• Steak, quinoa, brussels sprouts with bacon and sour cream• Broccoli-kale, spaghetti (fries?), mushroom-nut crumble
• Pizza
We move to a house with a full kitchen (and away from the bears)
• Anti Pasta• Lasagna from scratch
• Broccoli-spinach quiche
• Brussels sprouts • Chicken drumsticks
• Coleslaw
• Apple crumble• Apple pie
• Apple turnover
• Coconut cookies• Muesli bars
• Vanilla cookies
• Whole wheat bread• Raisin bread
• Banana bread
• Harvest and roasted sunflower pits• Roasted Spanish nuts
Some evenings we go on apple hunt. Before the developments around Shuswap lake, orchards had dotted the shore. Now the left over “wild” trees are scattered throughout the area and we become experienced apple tree spotters. But we get more from the land. Pine mushrooms in the forest and green tomatoes from the garden. 
This calls for some canning:• Green tomato chutney
• Chunky vanilla pear jam
• Apple sauce
• Apple butter
But the most proud I am of the thanksgiving turkey. 
We are a month later and I can honestly say, I enjoy cooking and I am not a horrible cook anymore. N, thank you for eating everything I put in front of you. Love you lots.Iris (Lee Creek, 49763 miles)
28 October 2010
49763 - Salute to the Sockeye
I blank out. Words just don’t come to me. About 30 to 40 people are eagerly waiting for my words. But no words flow from my mouth. I am holding a sockeye salmon heart in my hand, while talking to the people in English about a topic I hardly have any knowledge of. If they only knew that a month ago I refused to hold a still spasm but death fish down so N could cut it. If they only knew I have never seen a sockeye salmon in the ocean. If the only knew this is the first time I see sockeye salmons. If then only knew I am a cubic creature, city girl, an applied physicist. What am I doing here?
Never to long short of words I continue: “I am just blanking here. What was I talking about?” And back on track I continue my story: “So the heart of a sockeye only has 2 chambers, compared to the 4 chambers of us human. A sockeye doesn’t have to fight gravity and its gills are very efficient, which makes only 1 blood circle sufficient.” I grab the gills and show them around. “So when blood leaves the heart it first travels by the set of gills, which takes oxygen straight out of the water into the bloodstream, before the blood travels the rest of the body.” While talking I push the esophagus to the side. I don’t wane talk about this organ, while I can simply not pronounce that word. I grab the liver instead. “The main function of the liver is to remove toxins out of the blood stream, just like ours. Something we don’t have is this organ, the swim bladder. A balloon filled with air to match the pressure of a certain height in the water column. If you see a fish doing blub blub, it actually burps out water from its swim bladder and will sink.” I have told this story about 20 times now and get more and more fluent about it. “So let’s see what’s more out on the table. Ah, the kidneys still here in the fish. Remember this sockeye has spent the last 2 1/2 years out in the salty ocean. About 3 weeks ago they started entering the fresh water of the Fraser River, after migrating all the way from the Bering Sea. The kidneys responsible for the salt balance in the sockeye, now have to switch while the osmotic pressure changed in direction.” 
“A more visible change the sockeye undergoes when it hits fresh water is the change in colour and appearance. A sockeye lives from shrimp like creatures out in the ocean which colours its flesh. Do we not all know the nice looking pink fish on our plate? From the outside it however looks gray-marble. This is because we look at the scales. When the sockeye enters fresh water they stop eating altogether.” I hold up the empty stomach. “Still having 420 km ahead of them, they start consuming their own body fats and oils during the trip upstream. This includes absorbing their scales with the result that we look straight at the red flesh. That’s the whole mystery about why the sockeye looks red out here. Another source of energy is their cheeks and lips and this consumption exposes their teeth more and as the flesh of the jaw shrinks, it molds the jaw in a more hooked form, with an ugly red fish as a result.” 
”Can we still eat the sockeye?” a tourist asks. “Well that depends. The sockeye has used most of its oils and fats which would have given the fish its taste. The state the sockeye is in now, is not far from dying. Its flesh is more like white tofu and not very appealing anymore. I should say, not very appealing anymore to me. As I have Asian friends who like to suck out the eyes of a fish…” I look around, with 14.000 tourists today, there are busloads of Asians in the crowed. They are all nodding now. “…First Nation people eat the sockeye even in this decompose state.” “So the sockeye is now in fresh water and makes the journey upstream following its nose back to the place where it was born, to finally enter the Adams River 1.5 km down from where we are now.”
“In the Adams River they gather in waiting ponds in eddies all along the shore line.”
“Here they rest from the journey, find a partner and loosen up their eggs and milt.”
I grab the 2 egg sacks and spread out the 4000 eggs they are holding. “The eggs have been in a streamlined travel mode, packed firm together, while the female was traveling upstream. Now they loosen up and when she is ready, she finds a partner and looks for a premier spawning spot. Nice gravel, a little bit of water flow, far enough away from other pairs.”
“And here she starts digging a redd (ditch) by flapping here tail in the gravel. The male keeps defending here. Not so much out of love, but more out of desire to spread his own DNA. When ready the female will deposit about 50% of her eggs, which are fertilized by the milt of male within seconds. The water streaming over the lip of the redd, mixes everything together and buries the eggs a little bit under the gravel.” 
“Now the female moves directly upstream and starts digging her next redd. The gravel stirred up from this digging covers the previous redd downstream. In total she will create about 3 to 5 redds over a three to five day period. Hard work which is shown on her worn out tail and lost of energy. Also the male starts to worn out.”
“And after all that hard work, they die. Indeed they both die”
“End of story? No, the sockeyes now becomes valuable food and nutrients for the local eco system. Eagles, wolves and indeed the bear population. This abundant nutrition makes the local cotton wood trees growing to enormous heights.”
“The main contribution however is to the sockeyes own life cycle. The 4000 eggs will hatch into an alvin in the middle of the winter. These little larval migrate deeper into the gravel to survive the winter, and will live from the yolk sac still attached to them. With the spring runoff about 800 surviving, of the now called fry will float to the Sushwap lake, to spend a year eating from the flourishing plankton. And plankton in abundance, with all the death sockeye nutrition in the water. The sockeye born in orphanhood, is still literally fed by its parents. To complete the life cycle. About 200 smolts will make it back to the ocean. After 2 years in the ocean only 10 have survived and will start the journey back. But now rich of fat and oils, 8 are caught for consumption by fishery. The only 2 survivors will make it back here to the Adams river, to start the cycle all over again." A very intrigued process, but disturbing at the same time. A stroll along the shore becomes a smell survival walk.
With millions of spawning sockeye this year, there are kilometers of shore line with death sockeyes piling up.
Millions? That’s where its gets tricky. In 1913 the Fraser river was blocked by a landslide at Hells Gate and no sockeyes made it up to the Adams river. After installing a fish ladder a cycle with every 4 year a dominant run established. This year the record amount of about 35 million sockeyes entered the mouth of the Fraser River. From this population about 10 million entered the Shuswap Lake system. Of which about 5-6 million are entering the Adams River right now. Well that’s the guess. For a better scientifically guess (it stays biology), a mark - recapture program is on the way.
A portion of the sockeye is captured and marked with a tag before it is released back into the general population. 
After the sockeye died, carcasses are counted for tagged and untagged. This ratio is used to calculate the total amount of sockeye in the river. In equation form:
total_amount_of_fish=marked_fish*(total_recaptured_fish/recaptured_fish_marked)
How many there were is not known yet. For me, it was many. I have just never seen so many fish in my life before.
In the evening when we walk the stream the education continues. 
This time from N to me. “We do have a swim bladder, it evolved into our ear drum. Not a lack of efficiency but evolution has given us a 4 chamber heart.” And on and on it goes. I simply love these evenings. 
So for more questions, please ask N. He is the biologist, not me. 
Iris (Lee Creek, 49763 miles)
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